ONCE more, in December, the leaky "Asthmati "
was got under
way, but every day fresh misfortunes happened to her,
till Rae
declared : "She cannot be any worse than she is, sir."
He and his mate, Hutchings, had done their best to patch
her
up, but her condition was past their skill. She soon
grounded on a sand-
bank and filled. The river rising, all that was visible
the next day was
about six feet of her two masts. The property on board
was, however^
saved, and the expedition spent their Christmas of 1860
encamped on the
island of Chimba.
Canoes having been procured, they reached Senna late in
the month.
They here saw a large party of slaves belonging to the
comniandant, who
had been up to trade with Mozelekatse, carrying a thousand
muskets
and a large quantity of gunpowder, and bringing back
ivory, ostrich
feathers, a thousand sheep and goats, and thirty head
of fine cattle, and
in addition a splendid white bull, to show that he and
the traders parted
friends. The adventure, however, was a losing one to
the poor com-
mandant : a fire had broken out in the camp, and the
ostrich feathers had
been burned ; the cattle had died from the bite of the
tsetse, as had the
white bull, and six hundred of the sheep had been eaten
by the slaves,
they thinking more of their own comfort than their master's
gain.
Proceeding down the river in boats, the expedition reached
Congo
early in January, 1861. Here a flag-staff and a custom-house
(a floorless
hut of mangrove stakes roofed with stakes) had been erected.
The gar-
rison of the place being almost starved, the provisions
of the expeditioni
also ran short, though they obtained game in abundance.
A Notable Arrival.
On the last day of the month the " Pioneer," the steamer
which had
been sent to replace the "Asthmatic," appeared off the
bar, but the bad
weather prevented her entering. At the same time two
men-of-war
arrived, bringing Bishop Mackenzie at the head of the
Oxford and Cam-
bridge mission to the tribes of the Shire and Lake Nyassa,
It consisted'
of six Englishmen and five colored men from the Cape.
The bishop
wished at once to proceed up to Chibisa ; but the " Pioneer
" was under
orders to explore the Rovuma, and it was ultimately arranged
that the
members of the missipn should be carried, over to Johanna
in the " Lyra "
man-of-war, while the bishop himself accompanied the
expedition in the "Pioneer."
They had reached the mouth of the Rovuma late in February.
The
rainy season was already half over, and the river had
fallen considerably.
The scenery was superior to that on the Zambesi. Eight
miles from the-
m'outh the mangrove disappeared, and a beautiful range
of well-wooded
hills rose on either side. Unhappily fever broke out,
and the navigation.
of the " Pioneer " fell to the charge of Dr. Livingstone
and his com-
panions. The water falling rapidly, it was considered
dangerous to-
run the risk of detention in the river for a year, and
the ship returned
down to the sea.
On their voyage back they touched at Mohilla, one of the
Comoro
Islands, and from thence went on to Johanna, where they
received the
bishop's followers, and proceeded back to the Kongone.
Thence they at
once directed their course up the Zambesi to the Shire.
The " Pioneer,""
it was found, drew too much water for the navigation
of the river, and.
she in consequence frequently grounded.
Among his many duties, Charles Livingstone was engaged
in collecting-
specimens of cotton, and upwards of three hundred pounds
were thus
obtained, at a price of less than two cents a pounds,
which showed that
cotton of a superior quality could be raised by native
labor alone, and
that but for the slave trade a large amount might be
raised in the country
Wherever they went they gained the confidence of the people,
and
hitherto the expedition had been eminently successful.
At Chigunda a
Manganja chief had invited the bishop to settle in his
country near
Magomero, adding that there was room enough for both.
This sponta-
neous invitation seemed to decide the bishop on the subject.
The country which this tribe inhabits is well and fully
watered,
abounding in clear and cold streams, which do not dry
up even in the
dry season. Pasturage is consequently abundant, and yet
the people do
aiot trouble themselves about cattle, allowing to lie
unused tracts of land
which would feed vast herds of oxen, not to mention sheep
and goats.
Their mode of government is rather curious, and yet simple.
The
country is divided into a number of districts, the head
of which goes by
the title of Rundo. A great number of villages are under
the command
of each Rundo, though each of the divisions is independent
of the others,
and they do not acknowledge one common chief or king.
The chief-
tainship is not restricted to the male sex, as in one
of the districts a
woman named Nyango was the Rundo, and exercised her authority
judiciously, by improving the social status of the women
throughout her
dominions. An annual tribute is paid to the Rundo by
each village,
mostly consisting of one tusk of each elephant killed,
and he in return is
Abound to assist and protect them should they be threatened
or attacked.
The Manganjas are an industrious race, being good workers
in metal,
especially iron, growing cotton, making baskets, and
cultivating the
ground, in which occupation both sexes usually share
; and it is a pleas-
ant thing to see men, women and children all at work
together in the
iields, with perhaps the baby lying asleep in the shadow
of a bush.
African Farmers.
They clear the forest ground exactly as is done in America,
cutting
down the trees with their axes, piling up the branches
and trunks in
lieaps, burning them, and scattering the ashes over the
ground by way
of manure. The stumps are left to rot in the ground,
and the corn is
sown among them. Grass land is cleared in a different
manner. The
:grass in that land is enormously thick and long. The
cultivator
gathers a bundle into his hands, twists the ends together,
and ties
them in a knot. He then cuts the roots with his adze-like
hoe, so
as to leave the bunch of grass still standing, like a
sheaf of
wheat. When a field has been entirely cut, it looks to
a stranger as if
it were in harvest, the bundles of grass standing at
intervals like the
grain shocks. Just before the rainy season comes on,
the bundles are
fired, the ashes are roughly dug into the soil, and an
abundant harvest is
the result.
The cotton is prepared after a very simple and slow fashion,
the fibre
being picked by hand, drawn out into a "roving," partially
twisted, and
then rolled up into a ball. It is the opinion of those
who have had prac-
tical experience of this cotton, that, if the natives
could be induced to
plant and dress it in large quantities, an enormous market
might be found
for it. The " staple," or fibre, of this cotton is not
so long as that in
America, and has a harsh, wooly feeling in the hand.
But, as it is very
strong, and the fabrics made from it are very durable,
the natives prefer
it to the foreign plant. Almost every Manganja family
of importance
has its own little cotton patch, from half an acre to
an acre in size, which
is kept carefully tended and free from weeds. The loom
in which they
weave their simple cloth is very rude, and is one of
the primitive forms
of a weaver's apparatus. It is placed horizontally, and
not vertically,
and the weaver has to squat on the ground when engaged
in his work.
The shuttle is a mere stick, with the thread wound spirally
round it, and,
when it is passed between the cross threads of the warp,
the warp is
beaten into its place with a flat stick.
Unbounded Hospitality.
They are a hospitable people, and have a well-understood
code of cere-
mony in the reception of strangers. In each village there
is a spot called
the Boala, that is, a space of about thirty or forty
yards diameter, which
is sheltered by baobab, or other spreading trees, and
which is always
kept neat and clean. This is chiefly used as a place
where the basket-
makers and others who are en'gaged in sedentary occupations
can work
in company, and also serves as a meeting-place in evenings,
where they
sing, dance, smoke, and drink beer after the toils of
the day.
As soon as a stranger enters a village, he is conducted
to the Boala,
where he takes his seat on the mats that are spread for
him, and awaits
the coming of the chief man of the village. As soon as
he makes his
appearance, his people welcome him by clapping their
hands in unison,
and continue this salutation until he has taken his seat,
accompanied by
his councillors. "Our guides," writes Livingstone, "
then sit down in
front of the chief and his councillors, and both parties
lean forward,
looking earnestly at each other. The chief repeats a
word, such as
'Ambuiata' (our father or master), or ' Moio ' (life),
and all clap their
hands. Another word is followed by two claps, a third
by still more
clapping, when each touches the ground with both hands
placed together.
Then all rise and lean forward with measured clap, and
sit down again
with clap, clap, clap, fainter and still fainter, until
the last dies away, or is
brought to an end, by a smart loud clap from the chief
They keep
perfect time in this species of court etiquette."
This curious salutation is valued very highly, and the
people are care-
fully instructed in it from childhood. The chief guide
of the stranger
party then addresses the chief, and tells him about his
visitors — who they
are, why they have come, etc. ; and mostly does so in
a kind of blank
verse — the power of improvising a poetical narrative
being valued as-
highly as the court salutations, and sedulously cultivated
by all of any
pretensions to station. It is rather amusing at first
to the traveller to
find that, if he should happen to inquire his way at
a hut, his own guide
addresses the owner of the hut in blank verse, and is
answered in the
same fashion.
Singular Costume.
The dress of this tribe is rather peculiar, the head being
the chief part
of the person which is decorated. Some of the men save
themselves the
trouble of dressing their" hair by shaving it off entirely,
but a greater
number take a pride in decorating it in various ways.
The head-dress
which seems to be most admired is that in which the hair
is trained to
resemble the horns of the buffalo. This is done'by taking
two pieces of
hide while they are wet and pliable, and bending them
into the required
sh^e. When the two horns are dry and hard, they are fastened
on the
head, and the hair is trained over them, and fixed in
its place by grease
and clay. Sometimes only one horn is used, which projects
immediately
over the forehead ; but the double horn is the form which
is most in.
vogue.
Others divide their hair into numerous tufts, and separate
them by
winding round each tuft a thin bandage, made of the inner
bark of a tree,
so that they radiate from the head in all directions,
and produce an effect
which is much valued by this simple race. Some draw the
hair together
toward the back of the»head, and train it so as
to hang down their backs-
in a shape closely resembling the pigtail which was so
fashionable an
ornament of the British sailor in Nelson's time. Others,
again, allow the
hair to grow much as nature formed it, but train it to
grow in heavy
masses all round their heads.
The women are equally fastidious with the men, but have
in addition
a most singular ornament called the "the pelele." This
is a ring that is
not fixed into the ear or nose, but into the upper lip,
and gives to the-
wearer an appearance that is most repulsive to an American.
Elaborate Tattooing.
In this part of the country the sub-tribes are distinguished
by certain
marks wherewith they tattoo themselves, and thereby succeed
in stilL
farther disfiguring countenances which, if allowed to
remain untouched,
would be agreeable enough. Some of them have a fashion
of pricking
holes all over their faces, and treating the wounds in
such a way that,,
when they heal, the skin is raised in little knobs, and
the face looks as if
it were covered with warts. Add to this fashion the pelele,
and the
reader may form an opinion of the beauty of a fashionable
woman. If
the object of fashion be to conceal age, this must be
a most successful
fashion, as it entirely destroys the lines of the countenance,
and hardens
and distorts the features to such an extent, that it
is difficult to judge by
the face whether the owner be sixteen or sixty.
One of the women had her body most curiously adorned by
tattooing,
and, indeed, was a remarkable specimen of Manganja fashion.
She had
shaved all her head, and supplied the want of hair by
a feather tuft over
her forehead, tied on by a band. From a point on the
top of her fore-
head ran lines radiating over the cheeks as far as the
ear, looking some-
thing like the marks on a New Zealander's face. This
radiating principle
was carried out all over her body. A similar point was
marked on each
shoulder blade, from which the lines radiate down and
back and over the
shoulders, and on the lower part of the spine and on
each arm were other
patterns of a similar nature. She of course wore the
pelele ; but she
seemed ashamed of it, probably because she was a travelled
woman,
and had seen white men before. So when she was about
to speak to
them, she retired to her hut, removed the pelele, and,
while speaking,
held her hand before her mouth, so as to cpnceal the
ugly aperture in
her lip.
Cleanliness seems to be unsuitable to the Manganja constitution.
They
could not in the least understand why travellers should
wash themselves,
and seemed to be personally ignorant of the process.
One very old man,
however, said that he did remember once to have washed
himself; but
that it was so long ago that he had quite forgotten how
he felt.
Afraid of Cold Water.
A very amusing use was once made of this antipathy to
cold water.
One of the Manganjas took a fancy to attach himself to
the expedition,
and nothing could drive him away. He insisted on accompanying
them,
and annoyed them greatly by proclaiming in every village
to which they
came, " These people have wandered ; they do not know
where they are
going." He was driven off repeatedly ; but as soon as
the march was
resumed, there he was, with his little bag over his shoulder,
ready to
proclaim the wandering propensities of the strangers,
as usual. At last
a happy idea struck them. They threatened to take him
down to the
river and wash him ; whereupon he made off in a fright,
and never made
his appearance again.
Perhaps in consequence of this uncleanliness, skin diseases
are rife
among the Manganjas, and appear to be equally contagious
and durable;
many persons having white blotches over their bodies,
and many others
being afflicted with a sort of leprosy, which, however,
does not seem to
trouble them particularly. Even the fowls are liable
to a similar disease,
and have their feet deformed by a thickening of the skin.
Sobriety seems as rare with the Manganjas as cleanliness
; for they are
notable topers, and actually contrive to intoxicate themselves
on their
native beer, a liquid of so exceedingly mild a character
that nothing but
strong determination and a capability of consuming vast
quantities of
liquid would produce the desired effect. The beer is
totally unlike
ordinary drink. In the first place, it is quite thick
and opaque, and
looks much like gruel of a pinkish hue. It is made by
pounding the
vegetating grain, mixing it with water, boiling it, and
allowing it to
ferment. When it is about two days old, it is pleasant
enough, having a
slightly sweetish-acid flavor, which has the property
of immediately
quenching thirst, and is therefore most valuable to the
traveller, for
whose refreshment the hospitable people generally produce
it.
As to themselves, there is some explanation of their intemperate
habits. They do not possess hops, or any other substance
that will pre-
serve the beer, and in consequence they are obliged to
consume the
whole brewing within a day or two. When, therefore, a
chief has a
great brew of beer, the people assemble, and by day and
night they con-
tinue drinking, drumming, dancing, and feasting, until
the whole of the
beer is gone. Yet, probably on account of the nourishing
qualities of
the beer — which is, in fact, little more than very thin
porridge — the
excessive drinking does not seem to have any injurious
effect on the
people, many being seen who were evidently very old,
and yet who had
been accustomed to drink beer in the usual quantities.
The women
seem to appreciate the beer as well as the men, though
they do not
appear to be so liable to intoxication. Perhaps the reason
for this com-
parative temperance is, that their husbands do not give
them enough of
it. In their dispositions they seem to be lively and
agreeable, and have
a peculiarly merry laugh, which seems to proceed from
the heart, and is
not in the least like the senseless laugh of the western
negro.
People Wlio Trade Karnes.
In this part of the country, not only among the Manganjas
but in
other tribes, the custom of changing names is prevalent,
and sometimes
leads to odd results. One day a head-man named Sininyane
was called
as usual, but made no answer; nor did a third and fourth
call produce
any result. At last one of his men replied that he was
no longer Sinin-
yane, but Moshoshama, and to that name he at once responded.
It then
turned out that he had exchanged names with a Zulu. The
object of
the exchange is, that the two persons are thenceforth
bound to consider
each other as comrades, and to give assistance in every
way. If, for
example, Sininyane had happened to travel into the country
where
Moshoshama lived, the latter was bound to treat. him
like a brother.
They seem to be an intelligent race, and to appreciate
the notion of
a Creator, and of the immortality of the soul ; but,
like most African
races, they cannot believe that the white and the black
races have any-
thing in common, or that the religion of the former can
suit the latter.
They are very ready to admit that Christianity is an
admirable religion for
white men, but will by no means be persuaded that it
would be equally
good for themselves.
They have a hazy sort of idea of their Creator, the invisible
head-chief
of the spirits, and ground their belief in the immortality
of the soul on
the fact that their departed relatives come and speak
to them in their
dreams. They have the same idea of the muave poison that
has ah'eady
heen mentioned ; and so strong is their belief in its
efficacy that, in a dis-
pute, one man will challenge the other to drink muave
; and even the
chiefs themselves will often offer to test its discriminating
powers.
When a Manganja dies, a great wailing is kept up in his
house for two
days ; his tools and weapons are broken, together with
his cooking
vessels. All food in the house is taken out and destroyed
; and even the
beer is poured on the earth.
The burial grounds seem to be carefully cherished — as
carefully,
indeed, as many of the churchyards in America. The graves
are all
•arranged north and south, and the sexes of the dead
are marked by the
Implements laid on the grave. These implements are always
broken ;
partly, perhaps, to signify that they can be used no
more, and partly to
save them from being stolen. Thus a broken mortar and
pestle for
pounding corn, together with the fragments of a sieve,
tell that there lies
below a woman who once had used them ; whilst a piece
of a net or a
shattered paddle are emblems of the fishermen's trade,
and tell that a
fisherman is interred below. Broken calabashes, gourds,
and other
vessels, are laid on almost every grave ; and in some
instances a banana
is planted at the head. The relatives wear a kind of
mourning, consist-
ing of narrow strips of palm leaf wound around their
heads, necks, arms,
legs, and breasts, and allowed to remain there until
they drop off by decay.
Startling News.
As Livingstone marched forward word was received that
the Ajawa
were near, burning villages ; and at once the doctor
and his companions
advanced to seek an interview with these scourges of
the country. On
their way they met crowds of Manganjas flying, having
left all their
property and food behind them. Numerous fields of Indian
corn were
passed, but there was no one to reap them. All the villages
were
deserted. One, where on the previous visit a number of
men had been
seen peacefully weaving cloth, was burned, and the stores
of grain
scattered over the plain and along the paths. The smoke
of burning
villages was seen in front, and triumphant shouts, mingled
with the wail
of the Manganja women lamenting over the slain, reached
their ears.
The bishop knelt and engaged in prayer, and on rising,
a long line of
Ajawa warriors with their captives was seen. In a short
time the
travellers were surrounded, the savages shooting their
poisoned arrows
and dancing hideously. Some had muskets, but, on shots
being fired at
them, they ran ofif.
The main body in the mean time decamped with the captives,
two onljr
of whom escaped and joined their new friends. Most of
the party pro-
posed going at once to the rescue of the captive Manganja
; but this
Livingstone opposed, beHeving that it would be better
for the bishop to
wait the effect of the check given to the slave-hunters.
It was evident
that the Ajawa were instigated by the Portuguese agents
from Tete. It
was possible that they might by persuasion be induced
to follow the
better course, but, from their long habit of slaving
for the Quillimane
market, this appeared doubtful. The bishop consulted
Livingstone as to
whether, should the Manganjas ask his assistance against
the Ajawa, it
would be his duty to give it? The reply was : "Do not
interfere in
native quarrels."
Leaving the members of the commission encamped on a beautiful
spot, surrounded by stately trees, near the clear little
stream of Magomero,.
the expedition returned to the ship to prepare for their
journey to Lake
Nyassa.
A Fresh Start.
In August, 1 86 1, the two doctors and Charles Livingstone
started in a
four-oared gig, with one white sailor and twenty Makololo,
for Nyassa.
Carriers were easily engaged to convey the boat past
the forty miles of
the Murchison Cataracts. Numberless volunteers came forward,
and the
men of one village transported it to the next. They passed
the little
Lake of Pamalombe, about ten miles long and five broad,
surrounded
thickly by papyrus. Myriads of mosquitoes showed the
presence of
malaria, and they hastened by it.
Again launching their boat, they proceeded up the river,
and entered
the lake early in September, greatly refreshed by the
cool air which came
off its wide expanse of water. The centre appeared to
be of a deep blue,
while thie shallow water along the edge was indicated
by its light green
color. A little from the shore the water was from nine
to fifteen fathoms,
in depth, but round a grand mountain promontory no bottom
could be
obtained with their lead-line of thirty-five fathoms.
The lake was esti-
mated to be about two hundred miles long and from twenty
to sixty
broad.
The lake appeared to be surrounded by mountains, but on
the west,
they were merely the edges of high table-land.
It is visited by sudden and tremendous storms. One morning
the sea
suddenly rose around them, preventing them from advancing
or reced-
ing, as the tremendous surf on the beach would have knocked
their light
boat to pieces, while the waves came rolling on in threes,
their crests
broken into spray. Had one of them struck the boat, nothing
could
have saved her from being swamped.
'They are Lost! They are all Dead!'
For six hours they remained at anchor a little from the
shore, thus ex-
posed to the fury of the gale. The crew became sea-sick
and unable to
keep the boat's head to the sea, while some of their
party who had
remained on shore watched them, the natives every moment
exclaiming :
" They are lost ! they are all dead ! "
After this, every night they hauled the boat up on the
beach ; and,
had it not been supposed that these storms were peculiar
to one season,
they would have given the Nyassa the name of the " Lake
of Storms."
A dense population exists on the shores of the lake, some
being a tribe
of Zulus who came from the south some years ago. They
own large
herds of cattle, and are on the increase by uniting other
people to them-
selves. The marshy spots are tenanted by flocks of ducks,
geese, cranes,
herons, and numerous other birds. The people cultivate
the soil, grow-
ing large quantities of rice, sweet potatoes, maize and
millet. Those at
the north end reap a curious harvest. Clouds of what
appeared to be
smoke rising from miles of burning grass were seen in
the distance. The
appearance was caused by countless millions of midgets.
As the
voyagers' boat passed through them, eyes and mouth had
to be kept
closed. The people collect these insects by night and
boil them into
thick cakes, to be eaten as a relish. One of these cakes,
which tasted
like salted locusts, was presented to the doctor.
Abundance of fish were caught, some with nets, and others
with hook
and line. Women were seen fishing, with babies on their
backs. Enor-
mous crocodiles were seen, but, as they can obtain abundance
of fish,
they seldom attack men. When, however, its proper food
is scarce, the
crocodile, as is always the case, becomes very dangerous.
The lake tribes appear to be open-handed , and, whenever
a net was
drawn, fish was invariably offered. On one occasion the
inhabitants, on
their arrival, took out their seine, dragged it, and
made their visitors a
present of the entire haul. The chiefs treated them also
with consider-
able kindness. One at the north of Marenga, who was living
in a stock-
ade in a forest surrounded by a wide extent of .country,
which he owned,
made them beautiful presents. The doctor admiring an
iron bracelet
studded with copper which the chief wore, he took it
off and presented
it to him, while his wife did the same with hers.
At one place a party of thieves stole into the camp and
carried off most
of their goods, no one awaking, though their rifles and
revolvers were all
ready. The cloth, having been used for pillows, escaped,
but nearly
all their clothing was lost, and even their note-books
and specimens.
On the highlands, at the northern end, a tribe of Zulus,
known as the
Mazitu, make sudden swoops on the villages of the plains,
and carry off
the inhabitants and burn villages ; and putrid bodies
slain by Mazitu
spears were seen in all directions. In consequence of
this the land party,
composed of blacks, were afraid of proceeding and Livingstone
accordingly
landed to accompany them. While he struck inland to go
round a moun-
tain, the boat pursued her course; but a fresh gale compelled
her to run
in-shore. On continuing her voyage, a number of armed
Mazitu were
seen on a small island, with several large canoes belonging
to them.
It was evident that it was a nest of lake pirates. Further
on they met a
still larger band, and the voyagers were ordered to come
on shore. On
refusing, a number of canoes chased them, one with nine
paddles perse-
vering a considerable time, till a good breeze enabled
the gig to get
away from them. This circumstance caused great anxiety
about Dr.
Livingstone.
The boat party having sailed on for fifteen miles northward,
he was
still nowhere to be seen, and they therefore resolved
to return. Another,
gale, however, compelled them to put into a harbor, where
a number of
wretched fugitives from the slave trade, who had crossed
from the oppo-
site shore, were found ; but the ordinary inhabitants
had been swept off
by the Mazitu. In their deserted gardens cotton of a
fine quality, with
staple an inch and a half long, was seen growing, some
of the plants
deserving to be ranked with trees.
The Way Beset with Dangers.
On returning, their former pursuers tried to induce them
to come on
shore. Four days passed before Livingstone with two of
his party dis-
covered them. He had in the meantime fallen in with the
Mazitu, who
were armed with spears and shields, and their heads fantastically
dressed
with feathers. By his usual courage and determination
he prevented;
them from attacking him. When they demanded presents,
he told
them his goods were in the boat ; and when they insisted
on having a
coat, the Makololo enquired how many of the party they
had killed, that
they thus began to divide the spoil; and at last, suspecting
that he had
support at hand, they took to their heels.
Numerous elephants, suprisingly tame, were seen on the
borders of the
lake even close to the village, and hippopotami swarmed
in all the creeks
and lagoons. Several were shot for food during the journey.
Some-
times food was thus abundant ; at others, a few sardines
served for dinner.
The doctor saw that a small armed steamer on Lake Nyassa
could, by
furnishing goods in exchange for ivory and other products,
excercise a
powerful influence in stopping the traffic in that quarter.
The expedition had spent from the 2d of September to the
27th of
October in exploring the lake, and their goods being
now expended, it
was necessary to return to the ship. On their way back
they fell in with
a number of Manganja families, driven from their homes
by Ajawa raids,
taking shelter among the papyrus growing on Lake Pamalombe,
sup-
porting themselves on the fine fish which abound in it.
The party
reached the ship on the 8th of November, but in a weak
condition,
having latterly suffered greatly from hunger.
They soon received a visit from the bishop, who appeared
in excellent
spirits, and believed that all promised well for future
success. He
arranged to explore the country from Magomero to the
mouth of the
river, and it was agreed that the " Pioneer," her draught
being too great
for the upper part of the Shire, should on her next trip
not go higher
than Ruo.
The "Pioneer" Aground.
With three hearty cheers, the " Pioneer" steamed down
the river. The
rain ceasing, she unfortunately ran on a shoal, and was
detained in an
unhealthy spot for five weeks. Here the carpenter's mate,
a fine healthy
young man, was seized with fever and died. A permanent
rise in the
river enabled them at last to get on. On reaching Ruo,
they heard that
Mariano had returned from Mozambique, and was desolating
the right
bank of the river. He had lived in luxury during his
nominal imprison-
ment, and was now able to set the Portuguese at defiance.
An officer
sent against him, instead of capturing the rebel, was
captured himself, but
soon returned to Tete with a present of ivory he had
received.
The Zambesi was reached in January, 1862, when the " Pioneer"
pro-
ceeded to the Great Luabo mouth of the river. Soon Her
Majesty's
ship " Gorgon " arrived, towing the brig which brought
out Mrs. Living-
stone and some ladies about to join the University mission,
as well as the
sections of a new iron steamer intended for the navigation
of Lake
Nyassa. The name of the " Lady Nyassa" was given to the
new vessel.
The " Pioneer," with as large a portion of the vessel
as she could
carry, accompanied by two of the " Gorgon's " paddle-box
boats, steamed
off for Ruo in February. Her progress was very slow,
and six months
were expended before Shupanga was reached. Here the sections
of the
"Lady Nyassa" were landed, and preparations were made
to screw her
together.
Sad Deaths.
Captain Wilson had kindly gone on in his boat to Ruo.
On reaching
Ruo, greatly to their dismay the chief declared that
no white man had
come to his village. They thence went on to Chibisa,
where the sad
news was received of the death of the bishop. The sad
tale of the
bishop's death has often been told. He had set off in
the hopes of
rescuing some of his flock who had been kidnapped, and,
undergoing
fatigue and exposure to rain far greater than his constitution
could
stand, having been upset in a canoe and sleeping afterwards
in his wet
clothes, had succumbed to fever when returning to Ruo.
About the middle of April Mrs. Livingstone was attacked
by fever.
Notwithstanding the most skillful medical aid rendered
to her, her eyes-
were closed in death as the sun set on a Sabbath day,
the 27th of April,
1862. Her grave was placed beneath the great baobab-tree
in the spot
before described. There rested the daughter of the Missionary
Moffat,
that Christian lady who had exercised such beneficial
influence over the
rude tribes of the interior, and might, it was hoped,
have renewed her
labors in the country to which she had come. '
The " Lady Nyassa " was now screwed together and her stores
got on
board ; but, as she could not be taken to the cataract
before the rains in
Dec^.mber, the " Pioneer " sailed for Johanna to obtain
mules and oxen
to convey her by land, after she had been taken to pieces,
above the
falls.
To fill up the time the doctor resolved, on the return
of the " Pioneer,"
to explore the Rovuma in boats. Captain Gardner and several
of his
officers accompanied them two days in the gig and cutter.
The water
was now low ; but when filled by the rains, in many respects
the Rovuma
appears superior to the Zambesi. It would probably be
valuable as a
highway for commerce during three-fourths of each year.
Trip up the Rovuma.
Above Kichokomane was a fertile plain, studded with a
number of de-
serted villages. Its inhabitants were living on low sandbanks,
though
they had left their property behind, fearing only being
stolen themselves.
They showed, however, an unfriendly spirit to the white
men, not under-
standing their objects. The blacks assembled on the shore,
and evidently
intended to attack the party as they passed the high
bank, but a stiff
breeze swept the boats by. Attempts were made to persuade
the natives
that the travellers had only peaceful intentions, that
they wished to be
their friends, and that their countrymen bought cotton
and ivory. Not-
withstanding this, these savages were not satisfied,
and their leader was
seen urging them to fire.
Many of them had muskets, while others, who were armed
with bows,
held them with arrows ready set to shoot. Still the doctor
and his
companions were exceedingly unwilling to come to blows,
and half an
hour was spent, during which, at any moment, they might
have been
struck by bullets or poisoned arrows. The English assured
them that
they had plenty of ammunition, that they did not wish
to shed the blood
of the children of the same Great Father, and that if
there was a fight,
the guilt would be theirs. At last their leader ordered
them to lay down
their arms, and he came, saying that the river was theirs,
and that the
English must pay toll for leave to pass. As it was better
to do so than
fight, the payment demanded was given, and they promised
to be friends
ever afterwards.
The sail was then hoisted, and the boats proceeded up,
when they
were followed by a large party, as it was supposed merely
to watch therp,.
but without a moment's warning the savages fired a volley
of musket-
balls and poisoned arrows. Providentially they were so
near that six
arrows passed over their heads, and four musket-balls
alone went through
the sail. Their assailants immediately bolted, and did
not again appear
till the boats had got to a considerable distance. A
few shots were fired
over their heads, to give them an idea of the range of
the Englishmen's
rifles. They had probably expected to kill some of the
party, and then
in the confusion to rob the boats.
They were more hospitably treated by a Makoa chief higher
up, who
had been to Iboe, and once to Mozambique with slaves.
Ilis people
refused to receive gaily-colored prints, having probably
been deceived by
sham ones before, preferring the plain blue stuff of
which they had
experience. Another old chief, on seeing them go by,
laid down his
gun, and when they landed approached them.
They proceeded up the cataracts of the Rovuma, but finding
that the
distance overland was far greater to Lake Nyassa than
that by Murchi-
son's Cataracts on the Shire, they considered it best
to take their steamer
up by that route. After having been away a month, they
reached the
" Pioneer " on the 9th of October. The ship's company
had used dis-
tilled water, and not a single case of sickness had occurred
on board,
while those who had been in the boats had some slight
attacks.
After this they put to sea and visited Johanna, returning
to the fever-
haunted village of Quillimane. Here they were kindly
entertained by
one of the few honorable Portuguese officials they met
with in that
region. Colonel Nunes. He came out as a cabin-boy, and,
by persevering
energy, has become the richest man on the East Coast.
Extraordinary Sight.
Early in January, 1863, the "Pioneer," with the "Lady
Nyassa" in
tow, steamed up the Shire.
The Shire marshes support prodigious numbers of many kinds
of
water-fowl. An hour at the mast-head unfolded novel views
of life in an
African marsh. Near the edge, and on the branches of
some favorite
tree, rest scores of plotuses and cormorants, which stretch
their snake-
like necks and in mute amazement turn one eye and then
another
towards the approaching monster. By and by the timid
ones begin to
fly off", or take " headers " into the stream ; but a
few of the bolder, or
more composed, remain, only taking the precaution to
spread their wings,
ready for instant flight. The pretty ardetta, of a light
yellow color when
at rest, but seemingly of a pure white when flying, takes
wing, and
sweeps across the green grass in large numbers, often
showing where
buffaloes and elephants are by perching on their backs.
Ducks are very abundant, and being night feeders, meditate
quietly by
the small lagoons until startled by the noise of the
steam machinery.
Pelicans glide over the water catching fish, while the
scopus and large
herons peer intently into pools. The large black and
white spur-winged
goose (a constant marauder of native gardens) springs
up, and circles
round to find out what the disturbance can be, and then
settles down
again with a splash. Hundreds of linongolos rise on the
wing from the
clumps of reeds, or low trees, on which they build in
colonies, and are
speedily high in mid-air.
Charming little red and yellow weavers remind one of butterflies,
as
they fly in and out of the tall grass, or hang to the
mouths of their pen-
dant nests, chattering briskly to their mates within.
Kites and vultures
are busy overhead, viewing the ground for their repast
of carrion ; and
the solemn-looking, stately-stepping flamingoes, with
a taste for dead
fish or men, stalk slowly along the almost stagnant channels.
Groups of.
men and boys are searching diligently in various places
for lotus and
other roots. Some are standing in canoes, on the weed-covered
ponds,
spearing fish, while others are punting over the small
intersecting,
streams to examine their sunken fish-baskets.
Towards evening, hundreds of pretty little hawks are seen
flying in a
southerly direction, and feeding on dragon-flies and
locusts. They come,
apparently, from resting on the palm trees during the
heat of the day.
FIocks of scissor-bills are then also on the wing, and
in ' search of food.
ploughing the water with their lower mandibles, which
are nearly half an
inch longer than the upper ones.
At the north-eastern end of the marsh, and about three
miles from the
river, commences a great forest of palm trees. It extends
many miles,
and at one point comes close to the river. The gray trunks
and greea
tops of this immense mass of trees give a pleasing tone
of color to the
view. The mountain range, which rises close behind the
palms, is-
generally of a cheerful green, and has many trees, with
patches
of a lighter tint among them, as if spots of land had
once been,
cultivated. The sharp angular rocks and dells on its
sides have
the appearance of a huge crystal broken ; and this is
so often the
case in Africa that one can guess pretty nearly .at sight
whether
a range is of the old crystalline rocks or not. The borassus,
though not
an oil-bearing palm, is a useful tree. The fibrous pulp
round the large
nuts is of a sweet, fruity taste, and is eaten by men
and elephants. The
natives bury the nuts until the kernels begin to sprout
; when dug up
and broken, the inside resembles coarse potatoes, and
is prized in times
of scarcity as nutritious food. During several months
of the year palm-
wine, or sura, is obtained in large quantities ; when
fresh, it is a pleasant
drink, somewhat like champagne, and not at all intoxicating;
though,,
after standing a few hours, it becomes highly so.
Vegetable Champagne.
Sticks, a foot long, are driven into notches in the hard
outside of the
tree — the inside being soft or hollow — to serve as
a ladder ; the top of
the fruit-shoot is cut off, and the sap, pouring out
at the fresh wound,,
is caught in an earthen pot, which is hung at the point.
A thin
slice is taken off the end, to open the pores and make
the juice flow
every time the owner ascends to empty the pot. Temporary
huts are
erected in the forest, and men and boys remain by their
respective trees
day and night; the nuts, fish and wine being their sole
food. The Por-
tuguese use the palm-wine as yeast, and it makes bread
so light that it
melts in the mouth like froth.
Above the palm-trees, a succession of rich, low islands
stud the river
Many of them are cultivated and grow maize at all times
of the year.
Some patches ripe are .seen, and others half-grown, or
just sprouting out
of the ground. The shores are adorned with rows of banana-trees,
and
the fruit is abundant and cheap. Many of the reedy banks
are so inter-
twined with convolvulus, and other creepers, as to be
absolutely impene-
trable. They are beautiful to the eye, a smooth wall
of living greent
rjsingout of the;' crystal water, and adorned with lovely
flowers; but sp
dense that, if capsized in the water, one could scarcely
pass through to
land. Probably no tropical bird is more remarkable than
the famous
flamingo. The following incident is related by one of
a party of
travellers in Africa:
Our path led through the forest near the banks of the
river, of which
we occasionally got glimpses. It was here of considerable
width,
bordered by mangrove bushes. In one or two places there
were wide
flits covered with reeds. Suddenly, as we passed a point
of the river, I
saw drawn up what had much the appearance, at the finst
glance, of a
regiment of soldiers, with red coats and white trousers.
"Why, where can those men have come from?" I cried out.
A Regiment of Birds.
One of the party, who was near me, burst into a laugh,
in which his
sifters and the boys joined. "Why, those are birds,"
he answered. "A
regiment, true enough, but of flamingoes ; and see -
they are in line, and
they quickly march away as we approach."
A second glance showed me that he was right; and a very
curious
appearance they had. " See ! there is the sentinel."
As he spoke, one of the birds nearest to us issued a sound
like that of
a trumpet, which was taken up by the remainder; and the
whole troop,
expanding their flaming Avings, rose with loud clamors
into the air, flying
up the stream. We went on, and cutting off a bend in
the river, again
met it; and here our bearers declared that they must
stop and rest. We
accordingly encamped, though our guide warned us that
we must remain
but a short time, as we wished to reach some higher ground
before dark.
A fire was lighted for cooking; and while our meal was
preparing, I, with
others, went down nearer the banks to see what was to
be seen. We
observed on the marshy ground a little way off a high
mound, and
creeping along, that we might not disturb the numerous
birds which
covered the banks or sat on the trees around, we caught
sight of another
mound, with a flamingo seated on the top of it, her long
legs, instead of
being tucked up as those of most birds would have been,
literally astrad-
dle on it.
"That is one of their nests," whispered one. "The bird
is a hen sitting
on her eggs. Depend upon it, the troop is not far off.
See, see! there
are many others along the banks. What a funny appearance
they have."
Bird Wings Sweeping Through. the Air.
Presently a flash of red appeared in the blue sky, and
looking up, we
saw what might be described as a great fiery triangle
in the air sweeping
down towards us. On it came, greatly diminishing its
rate, and we then
saw that it was composed of flamingoes. They hovered
for a moment,
then flew round and round, following one another, and
gradually
approached the marsh, on which they alighted. Immediately
they
arranged themselves as we had before seen them, in long
lines,
when several marched off on either side to act as sentinels,
while the
rest commenced fishing. We could see them arching their
necks and
digging their long bills into the ground, while they
stirred up the mud
with their webbed feet, in order to procure the water-insects
on which
they subsist. They, however, were not the only visitors
to the river.
The tide was low, and on every mud-bank or exposed spot
countless
numbers of birds were collected — numerous kinds of gulls,
herons, and
long-legged cranes — besides which, on the trees were
perched thousands of
white birds, looking at a distance like shining white
flowers. Vast flocks
of huge pelicans were swimming along the stream, dipping
their enormous
bills into the water, and each time bringing up a fish.
They have enor-
mous pouches, capable of containing many pounds of their
finny prey.
Other forms of animal life abound in the Tropics, and
not the least
marvellous of these is the spectral lemur.
Lemur is the name applied to about thirty species of monkeys.
They
are divided into five principal genera, inhabiting chiefly
Madagascar, a
few living in Africa and the warm regions of Asia and
its archipelago.
The animals have two sharp claws on each hind foot, all
their other
nails are flat. In their habits and economy, as well
as in their hand-like
paws, the lemurs are like the other monkeys. They principally
differ
from those animals in the shape of the head, which is
somewhat like that
of a dog, and in the great length of their hind legs.
The latter are so
long, that when the lemurs walk on all-fours, their haunches
are consider-
ably more elevated than the shoulders.
But this structure is of great advantage to them in climbing
trees.
Many of the species are so active that they leap from
branch to branch
with a rapidity which the eye is scarcely able to follow.
The lemurs
derive their name from their nocturnal habits and their
noiseless move-
ments. They live in the depths of the forests, and only
move by night,
the entire day being spent in sleep. Their food consists
of fruits and
insects which latter they take while they are sleeping.
The spectral lemur is of a grayish-brown color, and lives
in some of
the forests of Africa, its long tarsi, or hind legs enabling
it to leap like
a frog, and. its curious eyes giving it a singular appearance.
Scenes Along the River's Banks.
Surrounded by such tropical scenes as we have just described,
with
their wonderful specimens of animal life, Livingstone
pursued his way.
A country once very populous was nearly deserted on account
of con-
tinuous raids by slave hunters.
A hippopotamus was shot, and, at the end of three days,
it floated.
As the boat was towing it, immense numbers of crocodiles
followed, and
it was necessary to fire at them to keep them off. It
is said that the
crocodile never eats fresh meat ; indeed, the more putrid
it becomes, the
better he enjoys his repast, as he can thus tear the
carcass more easily.
The corpse of a boy was seen floating by. Several crocodiles
dashed at
it, fighting for their prey, and in a few seconds it
disappeared. Sixty-
seven of the repulsive reptiles were seen on one bank.
The natives eat
the animal, but few who had witnessed the horrible food
on which' they
banquet would willingly feed on their flesh.
Their former companion, Mr. Thornton, here rejoined them.
Hearing
that the remaining members of the bishop's party were
in want at Chi-
bisa, he volunteered to carry over a supply of goats
and sheep to them.
Overcome by the fatigues of the journey, he was attacked
by fever, which
terminated fatally in April, 1863.
The whole of the once pleasant Shire valley was now a
scene of wide-
spread desolation. Fearful famine had devastated it,
and the sights which
met their eye in every direction were heart-rending.
The ground was
literally covered with human bones. Many had ended their
career under
the shade of trees, others under projecting crags of
the hills, while
others lay in their huts with closed doors, which, when
opened, disclosed
the mouldering corpse with a few rags round the loins,
the skull fallen off
' the pillow ; the little skeleton of a child that had
perished first, was rolled
up in a mat between two large skeletons.
Transporting the Boat Overland.
Hoping that the "Lady Nyassa" might be the means of affording
relief to sufferers across the lake, they hurried on
with their work. She
was unscrewed at a spot about five hundred yards below
the first cataract,
and they began to make a road over the portage of forty
miles, by which
she was to be carried piecemeal.
Trees had to be cut down and stones removed. The first
half-mile of
road was formed up a gradual slope till two hundred feet
above the river
was reached, where a sensible difference in the climate
was felt. Before
much progress was made, Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone
were seized
with fever, and it was deemed absolutely necessary that
they should be
sent home. Soon afterwards Dr. Livingstone was himself
attacked.
The "Pioneer" meantime was roofed over and left in charge
of the
trustworthy gunner, Mr. Young. One day, an empty canoe
was seen
floating down with a woman swimming near it. The boat
put off and
brought her on board, when she was found to have an arrow-head
in the middle of her back. A native cut it out, and,
notwithstanding the
fearful character of the wound, being fed liberally by
Mr, Young, she re-
covered.
About the middle of June the remaining members of the
expedition
started for the upper cataracts. Cotton of superior quality
was seen
dropping off the bushes, with no one to gather it. The
huts in several
villages were found entire, with mortars and stones for
pounding and
grinding corn, empty corn safes and kitchen utensils,
water and beer-pots
untouched, but the doors were shut, as if the inhabitants
had gone to
search for roots or fruits and had never returned ; while
in others, skele-'
tons were seen of persons who died apparently while endeavoring
to
reach something to allay the gnawings of hunger.
Several journeys had been made over the portage, when,
on returning
to the ship in July, they received a despatch from Earl
Russell, directing
the return home of the expedition. Arrangements therefore
were made
to screw the " Lady Nyassa" together again, as the "
Pioneer" could not
move till the floods in December. In the meantime it
was determined
to make another trip to the lake in a boat to be carried
overland past the
cataracts.
The same scenes were witnessed as before. Wild animals
had taken
possession of the ruins of a large village in which on
their previous visit
the inhabitants had been living in peace and plenty.
They had no idea,
having before kept closer to the river, of the number
of villages, always
apparently selected with a view to shade, existing in
that region, all of
which were now deserted.
They at length reached a region which had hitherto escaped,
where
the people welcomed them with the greatest cordiality,
and were willing
to spare the small amount of food they had remaining
for themselves.
But even here news of war soon reached them, and they
found that a tribe
of Zulus, the Mazitu,. were ravaging the country, and
that the inhabitants
were only safe within their stockades. They soon encountered
men and
women carrying grain towards these fortifications, and
soon they came
upon dead bodies, first one and then another, lying in
postures assumed
in mortal agony such as no painter can produce.
Terror from Savage Invaders.
On their arrival at Chinsamba's stockade, they were told
that the
Mazitu had been repulsed thence the day before, and the
sad sight of the
numerous bodies of the slain showed the truth of the
report. Chinsamba
urged them not to proceed to the north-west, where the
Mazitu had
occupied the whole region, and they accordingly remained
with him till
September.
After this they visited Chia Lakelet. On their way they
met men and
women eagerly reaping the corn in haste, to convey it
to the stockades,
while so much was found scattered along the paths by
the Mazitu and
the fugitives that some women were winnowing it from
the sand. Dead
bodies and burned villages showed that they were close
upon the heels of
the invaders. Among the reeds on the banks of the lake
was seen a
continuous village of temporary huts in which the people
had taken
refuge from their invaders.
Another extensive and interesting journey was taken in
the neighbor-
hood of the lake, and, on their return along the shores,
they found the
reeds still occupied by the unhappy fugitives, who were
already suffering
fearfully from famine. Numbers of newly-made graves showed
that
many had already perished, and others had more the appearance
of
Jiuman skeletons than living beings.
Altogether in this expedition they travelled seven hundred
and sixty
miles in a straight line, averaging about fifteen miles
a day, and they
reached the ship on the 1st of November, where all were
found in
good health and spirits. They were visited on board by
an Ajawa, chief
named Kapeni, who asserted that he and his people would
gladly receive
the associates of Bishop Mackenzie as their teachers.
About the middle of December news reached them of the
arrival of
the successor of Bishop Mackenzie, but that gentleman,
after spending a
few months on the top of a mountain as high as Ben Nevis,
at the mouth
of the Shire, where there are few or no people to be
taught, returned
home, while six of the boys who had been reared by Bishop
Mackenzie
had been deserted and exposed to the risk of falling
back into heathen-
ism. The poor boys, however, managed to reach the ship,
expressing
their sorrow that they no longer had one to look after
them, remarking
that Bishop Mackenzie had a loving heart, and had been
more than a
father to them.
In January, I864, the Shire suddenly rising, the " Pioneer"
was once
more got underway; but, her rudder being injured, she
was delayed,
and did not reach Morambala till February. Here they
received on
board about thirty orphan boys and girls, and a few helpless
widows
who had been attached to Bishop Mackenzie's mission,
and who could
not be abandoned without bringing odium on the English
name. The
moment permission to embark was given, they all rushed
into the boat,
nearly swamping her in their eagerness to be safe on
the " Pioneer's "
deck.
At the mouth of the Zambesi, they found Her Majesty's
ships
"Orestes" and ''Ariel," when the former took the " Pioneer"
in tow, and
the latter the " Lady Nyassa," bound for Mozambique.
After encoun-
tering a heavy storm, when the little vessels behaved
admirably, while
the " Pioneer " was sent to the Cape, the " Lady Nyassa,"
under charge
of Dr. Livingstone, proceeded by way of Zanzibar to Bombay,
which
they safely reached, though at times they thought their
epitaph would
be: "Left Zanzibar on the 30th of April, 1864, and never
more heard
of.
NEXT:
CHAPTER X
Continued
in 6099_10
